Garment construction



March 29, 1938. G. w. ROSENBERG GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed June 14, 1957 2 Sheets-Sheet l March 29, 1938.

G. w. ROSENBERG 2,112,788

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed June 14, 1937 2 Shets-Sheet 2 Patented Mar. 29, 1938 UNITED v STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Gordon W. Rosenberg, Elkins Park, Pa., assignor of fifty one-hundredths to Samuel P. Weinberg,

Philadelphia, Pa.

provide a maximum degree' of freedom of the upper part of the wearers body, particularly the arms and shoulders, while, at the same time, maintaining a neat appearance at all times. A

coat or like garment constructed according to the invention is particularly intended for those engaging in activities or occupations where it is necessary to move the arms and shoulders, for example the playing of games such as golfpthe 5 driving of automobiles, or other such activities. One object of the invention is to provide a novel garment construction which is simple, practical, and has the above-mentioned characteristics.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment of this type wherein the sleeves are freely movable relative to the body of the garment and there is employed an elastic lining which, in addition to its function as a lining, serves to urge the sleeves to normalpositi'on relative to the body of the garment and ,to maintain the sleeves in normal position until such time as the wearers arms or shoulders are moved extensively, at which time the lining permits free movement of the sleeves relative to the body of 1:!) the garment. The elastic lining imparts some degree of resilience to the garment as a whole and also serves as a resilient retention means for the sleeves and shoulders of the garment.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel garment of this type wherein greater freedom of movement of the wearers arms and shoulders is permitted by the provision of novelly arranged cross-stitch connections, as described more fully hereinafter.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a novel garment of the so-called bi-swing type wherein the sleeves and the side sections are freely movable relative to the back by virtue of hinge or pleat sections therebetween, while at the same time, .the elastic lining functions to urge the said movable parts to normal position and maintains them in such position but permits free -movement of the arms and shoulders wherever desired, as above-mentioned.

Other objects and features of the invention will be apparent hereinafter.

In the accompanying drawings:

Fig. 1 is a rear view of a garment constructed according to the invention with a portion of the back cut away for purpose of illustration.

' to points 4 at the bottom of the armpits.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along line 22 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 2a is a fragmentary rear view of the garment showing the shoulders in distended position;

Fig. 3 is a rear view of a coat of the bi-swing type constructed in accordance with the invention with portions of the back cut away for the sake of illustration;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along line 4-4 of Fig. 3; and

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary sectional view of a modification.

The invention is particularly useful in the construction of mens coats and, therefore, I have chosen to illustrate and describe the invention with reference to this particular application. It is to be understood, however, that the invention is not limited to such use but is applicable to any coat-like garment and is applicable to garments L worn by women and children as Well as those worn by men. The invention may be applied, for example to coats, blouses, lumber jackets, and other similar garments.

Referring now to Figs. 1 and 2, the coat there illustrated comprises the usual body section I and sleeves 2. In accordance with the present invention, however, the sleeves are free of direct attachment to the body section. at the rear of the garment. tached from the sleeves at the rear ofthe arm pits from points 3 just below the shoulder seams Extensions 5 are attached to the sleeves at 6 and underlie the body section I adjacent the arm pits. These extensions are formed of the same material as forms the body and sleeves of the garment.

In further accordance with the invention, there is provided an elastic lining 1 which may be formed of any suitable elastic material but is preferably formed of elastic material known. commercially as "lastex. The lining is so constructed that it has a back portion 8 which underlies the back of the body of the garment. This elastic back portion 8 of the lining extends between and is secured to the sleeve seams 6, and is loosely attached to the extensions 5 by means of loose cross-stitching at 9. The construction is such that when the sleeves are in normal position relative to the body section, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the back portion 8 of the lining is smooth and unwrinkled, as shown in Fig. 2, but is unstretched. In addition to serving as a portion of the lining for the garment, portion 8 serves to Preferably, the body section is de-.,

resiliently urge the sleeves to normal position relative to the body section I and serves to maintainthe sleeves in such position until such time as the arms or shoulders of the wearer are moved extensively, at which time the portion 8 permits movement of the sleeves relative to the body section I. By virtue of the detachment of the body section I from the sleeves at the rear and bottom of the arm pits, as described above, it will be apparent that the sleeves are freely movable relative to the body section I and are restrained only by the resilient or elastic portion 8 of the lining- Normally, the extensions 5 lie behind the body section I and are invisible, but when the arms or the shoulders are moved extensively, the upper portions of the sleeves move outward or upward relative to the body section I, as shown in Fig. 2A, exposing the extensions 5 which are not objectionably noticeable, however, because of their being formed of the same material as the rest of the garment. When the extensions 5 move outward or upward, the elastic portion 8 stretches and tends to draw the sleeves and the extensions 5 back to normal position. Thus, the elastic or resilient portion 8 acts both horizontally and vertically when the arms or shoulders are moved outward or upward.

The purpose of the cross-stitching at 9 is to hold the extensions or flaps 5 flat and to permit the greatest possible amount of stretch of the lining by allowing the portions of the lining between 6 and El on each side of the garment to stretch without distorting the extensions or flaps 5. This provides greater freedom of movement 'of the wearers arms or shoulders.

It will be seen, therefore, that in addition to serving as an elastic lining providing some degree of resilience or elasticity in the garent as a whole, the lining employed according to the present invention serves as a resilient retention means for the upper portions of the sleeves which are movable relative to the body section of the garment. There is thus provided a garment having the advantages of an elastic lining as well as the additional advantages provided by this dual functioning of the elastic lining. A garment thus constructed permits free movement of the arms and shoulders of the wearer, while, at the same time, maintaining a neat and pleasing appearance at all times. Whileit will usually be desirable to have the line of detachment between the body section and the sleeves as illustrated and described, the sleeves may be detached entirely from the body section of the garment, or over a greater or lesser area if desired. It will be obvious also that the elastic back portion 8 of the lining may be permanently attached to the inner edges of the extensions 5 instead of to the sleeves. In the construction shown, while it is preferred to employ the cross-stitching, the edges of the extensions or flaps 5 may be left free or may be hingedly connected to the edges of the body section I or permanently stitched to the lining 8.

In Figs. 3 and 4, there is illustrated a coat of the bi-swing type embodying the features of the invention. In this instance, the sleeves 2 and the side sections I0 are detached from the back section from the shoulder seams at II approximately to the waist at I2. The elastic back portion 8 of the lining is attached to the sleeves and V to the side sections III along the seam I3. Hinge or pleat sections I5 normally underlying the back section I serve to connect the back section I to the sleeves and the side sections, these hinge sections extending from the shoulders approximately 'to the waist, as illustrated. The hinge sections should be formed of the same material as forms the body or the sleeves of the garment. The attachment of one side of each of the hinge sections to the back section I is shown at I6, while the other side of each hinge section is connected to the sleeves and the side sections along the seam I3. At their lower ends, the hinge sections I5 are attached by means of stitching IT to the elastic portion 8 of the lining. The length of the hinge or pleat sections is, of course, a matter of choice, as is also the employment of the belt shown.

It will be apparent that in this instance, the sleeves and the upper parts of the side sections are freely movable relative to the back section I against the resilient retention action of the elastic portion 8. In this instance also, the elastic portion 8 serves both as a part of the lining and as a resilient retention member. The hinge sections I5 are normally flatly disposed between the back section I and the lining portion 8 and are normally invisible except when the upper part of the wearer's body is movedin a manner to move the sleeves or the side sections I0 outward or upward relative to the back section I. The hinge sections I5 permit free movement, while the elastic portion 8 resiliently urges the sleeves and side sections toward their normal positions. By virtue of the attachment of the lower ends of the hinge sections I5 to the elastic lining by the stitching II, the hinge sections are held flatly in normal position and are returned to such position by the resilient action of the back portion 8 of the lining, particularly when the arms are raised. At the same time, greater freedom of movement of the upper part of the garment is thus provided.

If desired, the inner folded edges of the hinge or pleat sections I5 may be attached to the elastic portion 8 by means of cross-stitching, as shown in Fig. 5. This serves to further maintain the flat normal condition of the hinge or pleat sections while permitting stretch of the elastic portion 8.

Instead of employing the hinge or pleat sections, the bi-swing garment may employ extensions or flaps similar to the extensions 5 of Figs. 1 and 2.

From the illustrations'and above description, it will be seen that the present invention provides a novelly constructed garment which enables free movement of the upper part of a wearers P body, while at the same time maintaining a neat appearance at all times. It will be understood, of course, that the invention is not limited to the specific forms herein disclosed but is capable of various modifications such as above mentioned.

I claim:

1. A coat or like garment having a back section, side sections and sleeves, said sleeves and said side sections being free of direct attachment to said back section at the rear of the garment from the shoulders approximately to the waist line thereof, whereby the sleeves and the upper portions of the side sections are freely movable relative to the back section, an extension attached to each sleeve and its associated side section and normally underlying said back section, an elastic lining for said garment, said lining having a portion underlying said back section and said extensions, means securing said portion of the elastic lining to the sleeves and the side sections, an elastic .stitch connection between said portion of the elastic lining and each of said extensions, and means securing the bottom of each of said extensions to said portion of the elastic lining, whereby said extensions are held flat and the sleeves and side sections are resiliently maintained in normal position but are permitted free movement whenever the arms or shoulders of the wearer are moved extensively.

'2. A coat or like garment having a back section, side sections and sleeves, said sleeves and said side sections being free of direct attachment to said back section at the' rear of the garment from the shoulders approximately to the waist line thereof, whereby the sleeves and the upper portions of the'side sections are freely movable relative to the back section, a hinge section on each side of said back section securing the back section to the sleeves and side sections. said hinge sections normally underlying said back section, an elastic lining for said garment, said lining having a portion underlying said back section and said hinge sections, and means securing said portion of the elastic lining to the sleeves and the side'sections, whereby the sleeves and the side sections are resiliently maintained in normal position but are permitted free movement whenever the arms or shoulders 'of the wearer are moved extensively.

3. A coat or like garment having a back sec-- tion, side sections and sleeves, said sleeves and said side sections being free of direct attachment to said back section at the rear of the garment from the shoulders approximately to the waist line thereof, whereby the sleeves and the upper portions of the side sections are freely movable relative to the back section. a hinge section on each side of said back section securing the back section to the sleeves and side sections, said hinge sections normally underlying said back section, an elastic lining for said garment, said lining having a portion underlying said back section and said hinge sections, means securing said portion of the elastic lining to the sleeves and the side sections, an elastic stitch connection between each hinge section and said portion of the elastic lining, and means securing the bottom of each hinge section to said portion of the elastic lining, whereby said hinge sections are held flat and the sleeves and side sections are resiliently maintained in normal position but are permitted free movement whenever the arms or shoulders of the wearer are moved extensively.

4. In a coat or like garment having a body and sleeves, said sleeves being free of direct attachment to said body throughout at least a portion of each armpit area, whereby the sleeves are free- 1y movable relative to the body, an elastic fabric extending between the sleeves and attached to the sleeve seams at the said portions of the armpits, whereby the sleeves are resiliently maintained in normal position, a body section overlying said elastic fabric, and a fabric extension attached to each sleeve seam and interposed between said elastic fabric and said body section, said fabric extensions serving to conceal said elastic fabric while permitting free stretching of the elastic fabric when the sleeves are distended.

5. In a coat or like garment having a body and sleeves, said sleeves being free of direct attachment tosaid bodyth-roughout at least a portion of each armpit area, whereby the sleeves are freely movable relative to the body, an elastic fabric extending between the sleeves and attached to the sleeve seams at the said portions of the armpits, whereby the sleeves are resiliently maintained in normal position, a body section overlying said elastic fabric, a fabric extension attached to each sleeve seam and interposed between said elastic fabric and said body section, and an elastic stitch connection between the inner edge of each fabric extension and the elastic fabric, whereby said fabric extensions serve to conceal the elastic fabric and permit stretching of the entire elastic fabric between the sleeve seams when the sleeves are distended.

6. In a coat or like garment having a body and sleeves, said sleeves being free of direct attachment to said body throughout at least a portion of each armpit area, whereby the sleeves are freely movable relative to the body, an elastic fabric extending between the sleeves and attached to the sleeve seams at the said portions of the armpits, whereby the sleeves are resiliently main tained in normal position, a body section overlying said elastic fabric, and a folded fabric piece attached to each sleeve seam and to said body section and interposed between said elastic fabric and said body section, said folded fabric pieces serving to conceal said elastic fabric while permitting free stretching of' the elastic fabric when the sleeves are distended.

'7. In a coat or like garment having a body and sleeves, said sleeves being free of direct attachment to said body throughout at least a portion of each armpit area, whereby the sleeves are freely movable relative to the body, an elastic fabric extending between the sleeves and attached to the sleeve seams at the said portions of the armpits, whereby the sleeves are resiliently maintained in normal position, a body section overlying said elastic fabric, a foldedfabric piece attached to each sleeve seam and to said body section and interposed between said elastic fabric and said body section, and an elastic stitch connection between the fold of each folded fabric piece and the elastic fabric, whereby said folded between the sleeve seams when the sleeves are distended.

, GORDON W. ROSENBERG. 

